Langano rises from the ashes

EDMONTON - In recent years two venerable Edmonton cafes have literally risen from the ashes arguably stronger and more vital than their previous incarnations. Make it a hat trick, as Langano Skies — closed for months due to water and smoke damage from a fire next door — joins Bistro Praha and Co Co Di in the phoenix category of local culinary survivors.

Unlike the aforementioned victims of the Kelly-Ramsey Block blaze, Langano Skies wasn’t forced to find a new home elsewhere. Indeed, those of us who have patronized the Whyte Avenue landmark for years will find things much the same. That’s a comfort for a practised purveyor of comfort food, not to mention a testament to hard work — and insurance. Those cute, cheesy clouds are still painted on the ceiling, an African mural graces the east wall, the fish tank is back and strategically stationed woven mosebs, embroidered tablecloths and sundry Ethiopian objets d’art complete the exotic yet homey vibe. A further design suggestion might include a cloth or beaded curtain covering the hallway to the loo, which is lit like a blood donor clinic.

It’s good news that the classic Ethiopian menu has also carried over, which continues in the tradition established by owners Paul and Amsale Sumamo and their children. Langano, by the way, is a popular holiday lake in the Oromia region’s Great Rift Valley set against the Arsi Mountains and 200 kilometres from Addis Ababa.

We began with vegetarian, meat and lentil stuffed sambusas — perfectly prepared, non-greasy (if unremarkable) samosas at $2.50 apiece, leading to a delicious order of kategna ($6.00). A piece of the trademark, essential national bread injera is grilled and folded over with a tasty, kicky spread of chile, garlic, ginger and spiced butter. There are other intriguing starters available including the misleadingly-titled foul — actually quite toothsome stir fried fava beans with feta — and chechhebsa, a luscious, previously enjoyed dish of toasted barley and teff flour.

Still, the real story at Langano Skies and any other Ethiopian restaurant I’ve visited centres on communally shared dollops of meat, poultry, pulses or vegetables served on a huge cylindrical piece of unleavened pancake-like injera. Smaller rolls of the same bread made from teff flour — which, if truly delicious and distinctive, look a bit like hand towels offered at fancy restaurant or golf club washroom — are used by tablemates to scoop up servings from the little mountains. No silverware is provided and none needed.

The same holds true for condiments, which are nowhere to be found. The kitchen here knows what it’s doing and as in any serious establishment, the wise diner leaves it at that.

With many choices for both carnivores and vegans alike — if no fish or shellfish — we settled for a selection, each priced in the mid-teens, covering all the bases save beef dishes, which are certainly well represented.

In one corner, we sampled Doro tibs (tibs means stir-fried) — marinated chicken breast with vegetables, spices, herbs and nitir kibeh, the ghee-like Ethiopian clarified butter. In another, there was Yebeg Wot, a dish of stewed lamb in a pleasant, non-nuclear berbere (chile) sauce made from the famous spice mixture. Yemisir Kik Wot is a similarly spiced lentils preparation, while Gomen Wot impressed as a dish of spiced spinach topped with lyeb, fresh, Ethiopian-style cottage cheese. Wot, for what it’s worth, more or less translates as stew.

Especially as to texture, but also due to similar spice mixtures and ingredients, there is a certain sameness to the dishes, undeniably tasty as they were, with the lentils, spinach and lamb our favourites. Then again, Langano Skies is a special destination sort of place, not a daily diner. You wouldn’t think of asking for a knife and fork given the tradition, but injera has a way of filling up a person, so beginners might go easy on, as it were, the chips with their dip.

We were frankly stuffed — mea culpa — and passed on the nondescript dessert list and cup of no-doubt superior Ethiopian coffee, a national treasure. Many wines seemed to be missing our evening, but there were no complaints about a bargain bottle of Le Bombarde at $23. It’s worth making note of the “Vegetarian Vibrations Buffet” served the last Tuesday of every month.

Service — by a family member — was excellent and professional throughout, with helpful advice.

It’s great to have Langano Skies with us again, and whether you are a newbie or a loyal customer, you just may be prompted to engage in another Ethiopian tradition. Gursha, or mouthful, is a gesture of affection that involves feeding food to your friend. At least a virtual gursha goes out to the Sumamos for keeping it real. Welcome back.
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