It's a common scene here
in Lalibela, a small town in northern Ethiopia that's home to 11
spectacular churches carved both inside and out from a single rock some
900 years ago. The chiseled creations have turned this mountain town
into a place of pride and pilgrimage for worshipers of the Ethiopian
Orthodox Church, attracting 80,000 to 100,000 visitors every year.
"It is one of the very
important places for the Ethiopian Orthodox Church people," says local
guide Fikru Woldegiorgis, who's lived here most of his life. "There is a
belief that Lalibela pilgrims share the same blessing as pilgrims to
Jerusalem," he explains. "They have to come at least once in a
lifetime."
And they come from all over.
Even though Lalibela sits
in a remote region of Ethiopia, the faithful will walk for days, even
weeks, to get here, many of them traversing the rugged mountains
barefoot. Amongst them, blind men and women and people with disabilities
also join the pilgrimage, making their way along Lalibela's winding,
hilly roads to reach the sacred site.
"What makes the Lalibela
churches important is that they are still in use," says Woldegiorgis.
"It's not a museum; it's a living heritage. Every day, every morning,
there is a service in all the churches."
Brimming with spirituality
Ethiopia is home to one
of the oldest Christian churches in the world, dating back to the early
fourth century. The Ethiopian Orthodox Church used to be a part of
Egypt's Coptic Church, but established its own patriarch in 1959. Today,
nearly two thirds of the East African country's population is
Christian, with most belonging to the Orthodox Church.
Nowhere does the
spirituality of the church's followers echo louder than in Lalibela. The
town is brimming with devotion; throughout the churches' compound,
you'll find worshipers leaning against the structures, kissing the
age-old rock walls, praying quietly or reading religious texts.
"They come early to get
the blessing -- because it's such a big deal, every inch of the place is
packed," says Aba Gebreyesus, the priest who presides over all the
churches in Lalibela. "People are so happy with the blessings they get
here, they come here without any prompting and spend their nights and
days at the church."
Distinctive monuments
The medieval structures
were commissioned by King Lalibela, of the Zagwe Dynasty, which ruled
much of the country back in the 12th century.
There are several
stories surrounding the creation of the churches, one of which says that
humans worked during the day and angels would speed up the building
overnight. Some historians say construction was completed at a
remarkable pace, taking about 23 years.
Carved out of volcanic
tuff rock, the famous churches have been built in a variety of styles.
Some of them were chiseled into the face of the rock, where others stand
as isolated blocks, like the iconic church of Saint George, constructed
in the shape of the cross. A complex and extensive system of drainage
ditches, tunnels and subterranean passageways connects the underground
structures.
Alebachev Retta, an
86-year-old church scholar who has studied in some of Ethiopia's holiest
cities, explains what makes these churches so distinctive. "They are
different because they were built from the top down," he says.
"Everywhere in the world, structures are built from the ground up," he
adds. "There is nothing comparable in the world."
Living legacy
Thanks to their
impressive architecture and rich influence on Ethiopian Christianity,
the churches have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1978. Five
years ago, UNESCO decided to erect protective coverings to shield four
of the churches from the elements. The shelters may be unsightly, but
experts say they are critical to preserving the integrity of the
churches.
In recent years, a
conscious effort to develop Lalibela's infrastructure has also brought
further attention to this remote place, leading to the arrival of even
more pilgrims and tourists.
Retta says he's seen
positive changes in Lalibela over the years. He says he's especially
content with how it's become a worldwide tourist destination.
"One, because the
country's culture should be shown, and secondly, many poor people in the
area are being helped," he says. "Everyone is making a living through
the tourism business. It's great; without the tourists, there is no
salary for anyone. If the tourists stopped, everything will stop."
But that doesn't seem
likely, as visitors keep on coming to Lalibela's churches. And although
the sacred sites provide a solid foundation for the faithful, it's the
followers themselves that ultimately breathe life into these ancient
rock walls.
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